The fourth day of the Amazon India Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2015 was hot, both literally (we are in Delhi after all) and figuratively. In case you haven’t been following the event, check out what happened on day 1, 2, and 3 as well. From tribal inspirations to military-inspired ensembles, outfits glistening with sequins and mirrors, there was no dull moment here!
Turning on the retro charm, Nikhita Tandon started the fourth day of the fashion week with a bang. The models showcased a string of fitted neoprene dresses with volume-creating elaborate ruffles in reds and blacks, some peekaboo-playing sheer fabric, and Victorian embroidery. Termed as a “sensual transition of colours and cuts”, this collection was inspired by elegant architecture. The showstopper for her show? Bollywood actor, Sonal Chauhan, in an asymmetrical red dress.
Pratima Pandey’s collection is inspired by a fairy tale that we all grew up reading. Sleeping Beauty. And Waba-Sabi, a Japanese concept. Naturally then, the ensembles have a romantic feel to them, whether it’s the floor length tunics made of silk chanderi, the wraps, shawls, or the waistcoats and jackets. There is a fair bit of floral embroidery, finely decorated with wool, dabka, dori, parsi, and phulkari. These Indian embroidery techniques make her work stand out from the rest.
Sahil Kochhar belongs to the newer generation of designers. Young and spunky, his spirit shows in his clothes. His collection, Haro Barno, is inspired by the Northwest Green Gate at the City Palace in Jaipur, Rajasthan. Also called Leheriya (means: waves) gate, it symbolises the spring season (ironical that he used this for his A/W collection?). One can see these waves brought to life on his ombré dresses and skirts. An edgy collection, featuring cutwork, jackets layered over translucent organza skirts, asymmetrical hemlines, flared skirts, and his signature serrated edging. From blacks and blues, we also saw some lovely fuchsia, green, and beige.
If we had to describe Pia Pauro’s winter resort line, Riders on the Storm, in one word, it would be “sexy”. What else do you call a Navajo-inspired folk art collection that has cutouts, cutwork, sequins, mirrors, open backs, halters, ample show of legs, midriff, and cleavage, along with some gloriously elaborate headdress and gladiator sandals? Yellow, pink, blue, white, and khaki, feature prominently in this sensous collection.
When steampunk and military mate and have a baby, it looks like the A/W collection by Virtues: Corsets with maxi-length flowy skirts, camo-printed pants with flimsy tunics, even some 90’s inspiration was spotted when models teamed dresses with pants. The line uses georgette, satin, chanderi, and tussar, in earthy tones of brown, green, and yellow, with subtle embroideries, zardosi, and mirror work.
Ruchika Sachdev’s Bodice is for the woman who wants to look great effortlessly; the Bodice girl doesn’t try too hard. The collection has a relaxed and comfortable feel, with the boxy silhouettes contributing to the overall clean look. From the jewellery to the clothes, it was all modern and minimal on the runway. We saw a fair share of ankle length pants and culottes, away-from-the-body dresses, skirts, and shirts. Indigo, copper, rust, and white, feature prominently in the line that is made of fabrics like cotton, handloom, silk, cotton-silk, linen etc.
An amalgamation of Orissa ikats and Oriental-inspired colours and motifs, this collection by Sonam Dubal features velvet, georgette, silk, along with chanderi and khadi, giving us a balance of structure and fluidity. We spotted floral prints, and lotus, paisley, heart, fish motifs on the embroidered coats, hand-painted kaftans, wrap dresses, and capes. Yes, there is a fair bit of black, but there is also orange, indigo, teal blue, gold, red, and a whole lot of other rich shades.
Picasso’s constellation-inspired line drawings come alive on Poonam Bhagat’s edgy collection, Taika. Taika features guitars, mandolins, and musical notes, on some interestingly draped clothes. She has used linen and matka silk, in monochromes, and some bright tangerine, cobalt blue, and ivory. From pants to dresses and skirts in different lengths, this collection is made for the woman who is strong, confident, and loves wearing strikingly different outfits.
Péro by Aneeth Arora
When models start walking to a live bagpipes band, you know this one’s going to be unlike anything else. Aneeth Arora’s military-inspired collection will remind you of uniforms, preppy fashion, and school girls (don’t be a perv!). The insignia that we spotted on the jackets and sweaters turned out to be zardosi flowers! An androgynous range with strong feminine undertones, we saw some fine hand-woven woollen Scottish tartan checks, excellent layering using roomy jackets and sweaters, dungarees, suspenders, a mix of patterns (stripes and florals, checks and florals, stripes and stars), and indigo resist block printed khadis.
Gaurav Gupta’s Risk is high on glam, whether it’s the androgynous pieces or the sensually fitted gowns. Batman-like capes were featured alongside one-shoulder gowns that had a Roman toga-like feel to them. The evening wear line comprises metallic details, peplums, bodycon and asymmetrical silhouettes, short fitted dresses, gowns with high slits, and pinstriped tuxedos. Colours like red, maroon, grey, gold, black, and navy breathe life into micro suiting, metallic jersey, neoprene, crepe, and suede.
Image Credits: FDCI